Exploring Catalonia

Nothing says "Hello Catalonia!" like Montserrat.

The Monastery of Saint Miquel.

A large waterfall, just near the monastery.

So Winter has come and gone for another year. Christmas in Switzerland was an amazing time, but I was also happy to return to Catalonia. The snow in the mountains had melted, and Spring was starting to make promises that you just know will be kept. There was a hope in the air - I'd survived the 2nd Term at school and it was Easter holidays! Hallelujah! December to April is always the hardest part for teachers - no public holidays to give you a long weekend (or 'puente' here, meaning 'bridge'), the kids know it's long and the weather is getting better too, so they just want to be outside. It's hard, really hard, but the weather also helps - your afternoon classes don't need the lights on, from the window of your evening classes you can see the sun setting and are no longer going home in the dark. The weather can also be a real downer - walking to work in the sun, feeling the warmth on your skin and your smile gets bigger, until you see people sitting in the square enjoying beer and tapas, and you have just started your day teaching kids. Sometimes I think people in this country do nothing but eat, drink, smoke and be merry - nobody seems to be working! So, anyway, it's Easter holiday time and time to decide where to go for holidays!

Sant Miquel del Fai - tucked into the cliffside.

The beautiful countryside of Catalonia.

The cross of San Miquel.

An ancient bell.

I'd been looking months before for flights, tossing up the idea of Rome, Prague or even somewhere in Morocco for a week, but flights at this time are quite expensive. Even though I have friends in cities all around Europe, the flights were too much, so I decided to stay local and see more of Catalonia. This year marks 10 years since I first moved here - time flies. Although I've left and come back, in total it's nearly 5 years here, and there is still so much I haven't seen, or want to see again. So I made a list, worked out how to get there, and off I went! The first place I visited was the Monastery of Sant Miquel del Fai. Situated near Manressa, a city not far from Sabadell and Terrassa, and the wonderful 'Magic Mountain' of Montserrat, it was a pleasant drive to get there, windy roads, views of the red countryside that is the Valles Oxidental. The monastery is a 11th Century Benedictine built in the Romanic style, and was declared a 'Spanish Property of Interest' in 1988. You can see it hanging right on the edge of the cliff as you follow the road, which also offers wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. Leaving your car, you cross a small stone bridge and then follow the granite canals which bring water into the monastery along the walls. The chapel is quite impressive - it's built in the rock itself, it's a little dark but refreshingly cool. This is the oldest part of the site, 11th century, and is the Chapel of Sant Miquel. Here there is very little decoration, but the architecture is beautiful with it's stone arches over the alter. You can also find a very valuable artefact, the 'Cross of the Fai,' a large silver cross with the Saint himself on it. Walking past the 15th Century priory house, you go under a small waterfall and past the pond that it fills, and going under another, much larger waterfall, you eventually come to the small Marti Chapel, also from the 11th Century.

Inside the monastery.

The 11th century chapel of Marti.

The walls that remain around Caldes.

The Lion Fountain - constant 74c water.

Although all this isn't terribly exciting, it was a lovely half-day trip and nice and relaxing too - sun, fresh air, beautiful scenery and no children - so much better than working! On the way home, I decided to stop in a place called Caldes de Montbui. It's nothing special - a typical Spanish mid-sized town, apartment buildings, cafes and bars - but one thing sets it apart and makes it special. The fact that the Romans were here is what changes this place from an unimportant name on the map to a place worth visiting. I parked just outside the city by the river and walked along the path between the river and the remains of the Medieval walls towards the centre. The town is famous now for it's thermal baths, built by the Romans, which also used to be part of an ancient hospital. Although they were closed when I visited, for repairs it seemed, I could still see a part of the bathhouse and even though there were no tiles or mosaics left, it was easy to imagine people coming here to soak in the waters under the large vaulted ceiling. Across from the baths there is the "Lion" fountain - a 15th Century construction (later remodelled in 1822) which pours out thermal water at a steady 74c. In the 1920s it was found that the water had medicinal properties, due to the high concentration of chlorine, sodium, lithium, bromine and iodine. I stuck my hand in the water (unfortunately before reading the sign where it stated how hot the water is) and got a bit of a shock at the temperature - apart from the heat you can clearly smell the minerals, something like a rotten egg, but supposedly able to cure several diseases, including some skin, bone and respiratory ails. Apart from these two attractions, the town doesn't have very much else to offer, even though it is a nice little place.

No mosaics, but still very well preserved for being more than 1800 years old.

2nd Century Roman baths in Caldes.

They are very independent here.

Vic and it's Catalan traditions.

The next day took me up North to the city of Vic - the capital of the Osona Comarca. The city is a very important city, being smack back between Girona and Barcelona - 60kms and 69kms away respectively. It was called 'Ausa' by the Romans, 'Ausona' by the Visigoths and sewage caps around the city read 'Vich,' but the 'h' has been dropped and is pronounced 'Bic.' The city has grown a lot since it's founding - it had 9,500 in the early 20th Century but now boasts 40,000. It also hosted the Roller-Hockey competition in the '92 Barcelona Olympics. It may have changed and grown, but it's Roman roots are still here. In the centre of the old town, a 2nd Century Roman temple still stands - it was only found in 1882 by construction workers who were tearing down the old 11th Century castle of els Montcada. Although the portico has been rebuilt (from the ruins that were found), the rest is original - something I find absolutely amazing. Spain is a wonderful place for finding Roman remains in well- preserved conditions, more so than Italy I've found. Why you ask, when Italy is the home of the Romans. This could be the reason actually - the fact that the whole country lies on top of another civilisation from 2 millennia ago, ruins sticking up from the ground, marble and stone taken for buildings 500 years ago, I think Italy is just so full of ruins that their importance is made slightly less. Spain on the other hand doesn't have as much and so treasure them as part of it's colourful history and culture - not just for tourist dollars. If you want to see Roman buildings and ruins in Spain, Tarragona is a great place to visit - and only just over an hour south of Barcelona too.

Vic and one of it's many chimneys - not used now but they stand as a symbol of the city's past.

Inside Vic Cathedral.

Vic is known for it's "fuet."

One of many interesting doorways in Vic.

Vic has had a difficult past, being conquered and re-conquered a few times. In 826 the city fell into the hands of the Moors but was finally recaptured by the Count of Barcelona, Wilfred the Hairy. Wilfred, Guifré el Pilós in Catalan, was a very busy man, possibly too busy to shave (hence the name?), as he was the Count of Urgell (from 870), Cerdanya (from 870), Barcelona (from 878), Girona (from 878, as Wilfred II), Besalú (from 878) and Ausona (from 886). Before his death in 897, he was responsible for the re-population of the 'no-man's land' around Vic with the refugees from the mountains, people who had fled the Visigoths. He also founded the Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll, a beautiful Benedictine church, built in the Romanesque style, in the city of Ripoll (where he now rests). Apart from the Cathedral in Vic, a church that is a mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic styles, the main square is a must to see. Normally filled with the famous Vic markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the huge Plaça Major has been in used for this purpose since the late 9th Century and really is something to see - a large, open space ringed by gorgeous houses, cafes and restaurants. This square shows the quintessential Catalan life - a beer and some 'pa amb tomaquet' in the sun, talking with friends, kids running around and playing, just relaxing and chilling - no worries in the World. Come Saturday though, it's hectic! The square is filled with the markets, people selling things from hippie tie-dye clothes, shoes and underwear to pots and pans, food and fresh vegetables - and whatever else you can think of - it's a great experience.

The 2nd Century Roman Temple in Vic.

Vic Cathedral.

A map of old Vic.

The old building in Vic are everywhere.

All of these places are very close to each other and Barcelona - Catalonia is a very handy little country for travelling. It's a shame that a lot of the roads have tolls on them, but there are some that don't, and those are far more interesting to drive on, albeit a little slower. There are cities, beaches, mountains, small towns and hidden valleys everywhere. May actually marks my 10th anniversary since I arrived here for the first time way back in 2007. I've only lived here for 5 years of those 10 (compared to 1.5 in Australia), but I've tried to see and do as much as I can - cities, nature as well as food and drink. I've been privileged to have lived in Cardedeu, a wonderful village that will always remain close to my heart. This year I've been living in Sabadell, Catalonia's 3rd most populous city and only 25 mins away from Barcelona, close to dear friends and from here we've hiked many a mountain and climbed several too. I've done my fair share of travelling here too, and using Barcelona as a base of operations, getting the chance to see Spain, Italy, France, Poland, Germany, Switzerland, The Czech Republic and quite a few more places, all within a quick flight or a handful of hours driving. There is so much to see in Europe that I've missed so far, apart from the small places, there are big places to see such as Croatia and Greece, which will remain on my wish list. For now, however, I'm here and trying to soak up as much of this wonderful country as I can - for who knows what the future holds and where I'll be next! The future is always bright when there are wondrous opportunities just around the corner - whether you can see them or not! Don't look back - just keep swimming!

The beautiful buildings and cute cafe's of Plaça Major.

Plaça Major on a non-market day.

Snow In The Mountains

The mountains are calling, even after my dose in Switzerland.

The 'cremallera' to Nuria.

The hike to Nuria.

My 2 week trip to Switzerland is one I will remember forever. I've said it before, but I'll say it again - I love small European countries, and ones with mountains are even more special (yes Andorra, I miss you too!). As much as I love travelling and going away, the feeling of coming home (and being able to wash clothes!) is also a wonderful feeling. I returned with a few days to adjust from holiday mode, complete freedom as far as waking up, going to sleep and how to fill your time, to normal life mode - the mundane but necessary part of life. I can't complaint though, I have a decent job and live in a great country. It wasn't long though that I needed a dose of the mountains, the fresh air and open country, hiking books and climbing gear. I live in Sabadell, a city of around 300,000 people just outside Barcelona, and it is fairly close to everything. From my bedroom window I can see the hills of Barcelona, with Tibidabo and the huge Montjuïc Communications Tower  sitting right on top, and on the other side of the building (hidden from me, but I know it's there) is La Mola and Monstserrat. I've hiked all of these mountains, and even climbed on Montserrat, but I've never done any of these in Winter. Another thing I'd never done was hike to the Nuria Valley and really explore the area around there - so that was first on the list!

The beautiful Nuria Valley.

The Nuria Valley and the hotel.

Misty mountains.

El Cami dels Enginyers.

Starting from Queralbs, a wealthy and quite beautiful little town in the foothills of the Pyrenees, we set off on the 2 hour walk to the ski resort of Valle de Núria. Most people take the train, and I've done that before, but this time I would be enjoying the view from the trail rather than the window. As my hiking buddy and I reached the top, a small hill that serves as a viewpoint for Núria, it had just started to rain - but that didn't spoil the view one bit! From our lookout, the ski resort and hotel sits in the middle of a valley, mountains reaching up around the 3 sides, valleys running through the gaps, and a large lake and dam right in front. Picturesque and so beautiful - in rain, fog, sunshine or even snow! The valley is 2000m above sea level and there is no road access at all - you can only reach it by walking (there is a trail from to/from France as well), the train or by helicopter - it would be amazing to fly and land here by air, but the last thing you want is to leave in the helicopter, as only people who have fallen in the mountains usually leave that way. The main building is the hotel, but there is also a church which holds the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Núria. Legend has it that if you put your head in the hole of the wooden box just inside the doors of the church, kind of like a confessional box with a cushion for your knees but it completely covers your head, pull the chain and ring the bell above your head, you'll be blessed with lots of children. Núria is also very important for the Catalans, not sacred like Montserrat, but in 1931 the drafting of the first Catalan Statute of Autonomy took place here, right in the church.

Happy Birthday Carles!

El Refugi Coma de Vaca.

A curious Chamois.

Hiking to Coma de Vaca.

A few more hours hiking was ahead of us though, but we stopped in the hotel for a quick coffee and snack with two other friends who'd spent the night here as part of a birthday surprise - happy birthday Carles! We had surprised him by hiking up and meeting up, before continuing on to a mountain refuge for the night. The refuge, Refugi Coma de Vaca, is about 4 more hours away, and close to the 'Cami dels Enginyers,' a concrete walkway that follows the curves of the mountains along the GR-11, and was built by engineers when they were working on a hydro electric project here. We climbed to the top, following the dirt path (as the cami is closed), and were rewarding with spectacular weather - fast moving clouds, offering sharp rays of sunlight and hints of blue sky, before covering the peaks again and moving on. We were also very lucky to see a herd of Chamois - some were very casual and continued to do their thing, while others couldn't help but stare at us in unashamed curiosity. We did the same. We reached the mountain refuge, our accommodation for the night, tired and hungry, but very happy. We celebrated by drinking some wine and cava that I'd brought up in my backpack and had a great meal with the rest of the people sleeping there for the night on a large wooden table and bench seats. The refuge holds around 40 people, and while not full, it is always strange sleeping near so many people - the beds are all in a row too so you feel the one of the seven dwarfs! We set off early as we had a long hike back to the car. It was cold and windy, but crisp, clean and beautiful - there's nothing like the mountains, in any weather!

Mountains and sea - the Mediterranean from Matagalls.

The Med on one side, the Pyrenees on the other.

A church cat.

Snow in B&W.

Although the winter had been mild so far, there was snow to be had in the higher parts of the mountains. Most people wouldn't relate Spain and snow (much like Australia, but you can ski there too!), as it's always shown to be hot and dry, busy cities with people eating and drinking, but there is snow and it's very accessible too! The Montseny mountain, just outside of Barcelona, is one of my favourite places in Catalonia. When I lived in Cardedeu I had a wonderful view of the mountain from my living room window - I used to get excited when it was cold and rained at night, looking forward to seeing the fresh snow on it's peaks. I've hiked up Montseny a dozen times or more - there are so many paths and ways to go, the most popular probably being the Turó del Home, an easy walk up to the radio tower at 1,700m. This time, with a bit of snow too, I decided to head around the other side of this mountain and climb Matagalls. The three of us headed up, no snow shoes (easy is boring!), starting from the Collformic carpark, up to the top  of Cim Matagalls at 1,697. Although there was a lot of snow, we didn't struggle too much, and really enjoyed the walk - so did all the dogs along the trail, running and diving into the snow, eating it and just being dogs. It was busy this day and many people had snow shoes or skies, which they hiked up with on their backs and then strapped them on at the top and skied back to their car - awesome!

Half-way up Matagalls - snack time.

The easy way down.

The cross at the top of Matagalls.

Frozen.

I can't remember how long it took us to reach the top, but it wasn't that hard, a few knee deep falls and stumbles, but the 'landing' was always soft - the biggest worry would be wet feet! Although the weather wasn't clear, it was just enough to see the sun reflecting off the bright sea, the clouds moving quickly overhead to give us a quick peek, also adding real atmosphere. The cross at the top, I recently only found out, is to comemorate the deaths of 110 soldiers who died in the area, and are actually buried near the carpark, during the Third Carlist War (1872-76). I don't know all the details of this war, and it's hard to find much information on the web that isn't in Catalan or badly translated (even then there's not much!), but these men had fled Vic, a Catalan city in the North, hoping to make it to St Celoni (a town nearby Montseny), but were caught and shot. Forty years later, in 1912, a cross was erected to remember those who had fought and fallen.

Hiking Matagalls.

The weather had it's moments - the fog eventually came in, but it was still great.

A bit tacky but a lot of fun!

Blue, white and green - colours of the mountains.

Along the way we stopped for a quick snack of juice, a sandwich and some chocolate, and enjoyed a view of the Mediterranean sea. It's times like this when I am truly happy - problems and worried disappear, nothing is weighing on your mind anymore, everything is simply at peace. I completely understand the obsession some people have with mountains - be it hermits, trail runners or climbers. There is nothing like it in the World - these huge, rocky peaks are there, waiting to be climbed, hiked and enjoyed - Nature's Churches. Some people do take it too far, hike where they shouldn't or aren't up to the difficulty of the climb, bad weather and under preparedness, or some people are just nuts like Killian Jornet. Born in Sabadell, Catlonia (yes, where I live!), he was basically brought up on the mountains, and now has achieved so many mountain feats including the fastest known time for the ascent and descent of The Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and Denali. He's only 29. When I'm up a mountain, I feel younger, happier and more level - you wither get this or you don't - some people don't and will never understand, for others, there is no need to explain. At the top we enjoyed the view and the achievement, took and a few photos, got some taken of us and took some for others. Sometimes it's to be alone at the top, but sometimes it's far better to share with good friends and even with complete strangers who are sharing the same elation as you. We came down much faster - a combination of running, sliding and tumbling head over heads in the snow. Sometimes you just have to be a kid and laugh so hard your jaw hurts and tears stream down your face!

Rasos de Peguera.

The 'city-slickers' getting their dose of the country life.

Super models taking a walk.

The trail - snow and sun!

As I mentioned before, sometimes mountains are best shared with good friends. I'd climbed Nuria with 3 great friends, real adventurous people who I go climbing and hiking with all the time. There were 3 of us in Matagalls and the next trip, to Rasos de Peguera, there would be 6 of us in total! The drive to Berga up the C-17 is a nice one, past lovely towns like L'ametlla del Valles and La Garriga, following the road where there are of 'colonias' hugging the river, a sign of a now extinct textile industry. These colonias are the housing built by the factory owner for their workers, which seems like a nice thing to do for a boss or company, but really these places are in the middle of nowhere so there was no option - you would have to buy everything from the company, food, clothing and household goods, and you wouldn't get paid that much to begin with - that and it would be hard to get a day off too. Basically slave labour. Nowadays, primary school kids visit summer camps and call them 'colonias,' probably not knowing what they used to be.

The mining village of Peguera.

Rasos de Peguera.

The walk to the restaurant and beer o'clock.

One of the ruined houses.

Rasos de Peguera is a ski resort near the town of Berga, not far from the Pyrenees. Interestingly, this was the first place you could ski in Catalonia, and in 2008 they celebrated the centenary of it being open. We weren't skiing however, much preferring a hike instead. We walked over and past the ski slopes, past the 'pisa-pins,' 'domingeros' and 'weekend warriors,' all out to get some snow, fresh air (with a cigarette) and of course photos of them doing it - preferably selfies. Everyone likes to get away for a day or a weekend, but these people can't drive in the country, have no idea about mountains, and really just want their Facebook life to look good as they're in the snow and countryside, but not doing anything except drinking, smoking a taking mobile selfies, which they do in the city too. We passed them and the noise dropped off and the relaxation set in. Aaaahhh. We followed a trail through the mountains, enjoying the views and spectacular weather, walking to the abandoned village of Peguera. This is where the valley got it's name, and once it used to be an important mining town, coal being the resource, and people were pulling the black stuff out of these hills until the closure of the mine in 1928. Today, there isn't much left - a few ruined buildings, walls leaning over and crumbling and roofs that have fallen in. The village is still quite pretty, but it would be a little spooky at night - you can stay here, and people do, inside a few of the abandoned houses, which I'm not sure I would do as we checked on out and the second floor made noises as we walked on it. Yup, leave quickly but carefully!

Renovator's delight!

The city of Berga

A great day with great friends.

After the hike, we found a cute little restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking Berga where we tucked into bravas, a refreshing drink (or three) and galtas (pork cheeks). Our legs were feeling tired but good, the sun was shining, cold beer was at hand, and I was with good friends - this is life. Not every day can be great or special, no matter what the 'positivity gurus' tell you, but there's nothing wrong with that! If every day was 'amazing' or worthy of an Instagram photo, a Facebook post, then what would you look forward to? What would you have to compare it too? Too many people think that every day should be 'carpa diem' - getting on your table and yelling to the World and being awesome all the time. I'm sorry, but screw that, some days you need to do your washing, go to work and put up with shit, or just chill in your bed or on your sofa and do nothing - those moments can be 'awesome' too. On the other hand, don't just work away your life just for the weekend escape. Balance is important. Find your balance and be your own 'happy,' not someone else's.

Find your own happiness.