Japan Trip - Part 5: Nara

Red Torii at Inari Shrine

It was a little sad leaving Kyoto, as it was a great little city. I had hardly scratched the surface with temples and all the little secrets the city held. For example, I didn't get a chance to see the Imperial Palace, nor did I visit Gion, the Geisha area. Unfortunately, this is how it was - I had no accommodation in Kyoto for the weekend, so had to move on. On the up-side, I was off to Nara - everything I'd heard about this place was good, and since it wasn't on my original itinerary, it was a bonus.

Chillin' in Nara.

A rare shot with no people.

The Kitsune statue guarding the temple.

On the train to Nara, I decided to see one more temple sight in Kyoto before I left. Just outside the city, and easily found by following the hordes of tourists, was the Inari Shrine. This place is famous for its red gates or arches, called Red Torii, and there are hundreds, if not thousands of them leading up to the top of the mountain. The Inari Shrine is a Shinto shrine to the god Inari. Inari Okami is the Japanese Kami, or spirit, of foxes, as well as fertility, rice, sake, agriculture, industry and of general prosperity and worldly success. That's one busy deity! The first thing you notice about this place are the huge red gates everywhere, and then what I thought were dog statues (which I now know are foxes!). Then, the hordes of tourists! You will have seen this place, as anyone who is in Japan and considers themselves a photographer comes here. People walk through the red arches, trying to get it with nobody else in the frame... but do they work together? Of course not. I got a few people together, asked them to wait before walking though (so that I could take a picture...), and then said that if they wait too, they can get the postcard shot. It worked - and they seemed genuinely surprised that it worked! I trudged all the way up the hill, aiming to get all the way to the top - hoping for some grand shrine, something that only the truly fit and steadfast see. I was slightly disappointed when, upon reaching the top after a hard 2 hour slog, there was a sign that said 'top of the mountain,' and that was it - no view, no shrine, just flies and more bloody red gates!

Writing on the Red Torri.

Hello Dear!

I seem to be going from busiest to most quiet - the craziness and humanity of Tokyo, to the large, impersonal buildings of Osaka, to Kyoto, a small city filled with temples, and finally on to Nara. I had no idea what to expect from Nara, apart from my bed for the next 3 days. Although quite small, it is busy enough, and feels clean and fresh. My hostel was a 5 minute walk from the train station, and I was given directions from the always very helpful staff at the railway station. I was also given a small, Origami deer by the lady - the deer being the symbol of Nara, as the place is full of them. I settled into my hotel, then headed out straight away to see those deer.

I don't believe you - you have more, I know it!

Beware of the deer.

Praying at the temple.

Just beyond the shops and houses of Nara there are many parks, temples and even more deer. Known for it's temples, these are one of the main attractions, but the deer seem to be the bigger hit really - they have been declared 'National Treasures' even. You can buy 'deer biscuits' for Y150 ($1.50), and as soon as the transaction is done, the 'starving' little creatures are lining up for their num nums. There is a sign that warns you of the dangers of the animals, which made me laugh at first (as they seem so cute and friendly), but heed this message - butting, biting and kicking are just some of the tactics employed by the little treasures to get their cookies. In saying this, the little deers are not dangerous, it's more that the tourists are just a source of food. Picnics are raided, streets and fences are no barriers, nor are shops - a deer's gotta eat!

Go on, tell us another joke!

That baby looks edible...

The hostel I stayed at was great, but unfortunately there was a snorer. I had forgotten that was a downside of backpackers - beer, late nights, and then crashing on your back = snoring. I will excuse people from a quite little snort after a few too many drinks and a ciggy or two, but a real snorer is enough to kill someone. I nearly did. The first night, I just put some music on (didn't work), tried to ignore it (while getting very angry), and had a strong coffee for breakfast. Day 2, and the same guy was at it! I tried throwing scrunched up bits of paper at him, whispering  to him to turn over... nothing worked. I was fed up of him sleeping well, and me looking like a zombie after a big night out with no brains to feed on, so I started kicking his bed and whisper/yelling at him. He woke up with a fright, looked at me for a bit (probably thinking he was still alseep) and stop snoring... for 5 seconds. He didn't turn over or apologise. Kicking, waking, kicking and eventually I was able to sleep... there should be a law that if there is a snorer in a common sleeping area, anyone should be allowed to suffocate them with their own pillow for the sake of everyone else's benefit. He checked out sometime in the morning before I woke up.

Toda-ji Temple which houses the world's largest bronze buddha.

Back to Nara. Nara is also home to the Toda-Ji, The Great Eastern Temple, which in turn is home to the Daibatsu - the largest bronze statue in the world of the Buddha Vairocana. Construction of the building started in 745 AD, and was finished in 751 - the construction nearly bankrupted Japan as it used up most of it's bronze on this monumental Buddha. The building has been burnt down and rebuilt twice - the current structure dates from 1709 and is immense at 57m long and 50m wide,  is actually 30% smaller than the previous one - the building was the largest wooden structure up until 1998. An interesting fact - the is a hole in a wooden beam in the temple, which is the size of the Buddha's nostril, and it is said if you can fit though it, you will get good luck. There was a huge line up (mostly kids), so I felt a little silly to line up... just have to run with my bad luck. The temple is in a huge park complex, with many other temples, most free to walk in and have a look. People still visit them for religious purposes, and not just for tourism.

Psssst!

What?!

Origami deer from Nara.

My time in Japan had nearly come to an end, so I enjoyed the rest of my time in this relaxing city, walking the streets and just trying to soak all the atmosphere I could. By complete accident, I found a small second hand store selling Kimonos. They were labelled as Y500 ($5), so I asked the little old lady inside, who was all dressed up in a kimono herself, 'Honto (Truly)?' and she said yes, so I bought one - so cool, my own Kimono for five bucks! Not much else to do in Nara really - it is basically parks and temples. It was perfect for my last days though, and I felt truly relaxed and felt satified with my time here, and ready to go home at the same time. A trip well done, but Japan is so big (bigger than you would think! It just looks skinny), and there is so much that I didn't see. Mt Fuji, Hiroshima and Nagoya to name a few places. Next time Japan - I know there will be.

Goodbye and thank you Japan.

The main street of Nara.

Banging out Japanese sweets.

My stopover for my flight was in Shanghai. I hate airports flying at the best of times, but this was a particularly bad flight. I have nothing against Chinese people, I love the food and have been to China myself and really enjoyed my time there, but there is something about the Chinese and queues. I was waiting to be called to the gate, cleaners were sweeping the floor (and spitting at the same time), people were yelling into their mobiles and generally being noisy and annoying. It was finally boarding time, and we were called to the desk, and all of a sudden everyone went made - pushing and shoving and so much noise! It felt like the Titanic was going down and there was only 1 lifeboat. Just like the guy in the movie who shot people at the lifeboat (I didn't have a gun though, as they even take away cigarette lighters at airports now), I raised my teacher's voice and told them to relax and stop pushing - babies in prams were being pushed even. They pushed to get on the bus which would take us to the plane, and pushed again to get off and on the steps to the plane. The Chinese love to push, and find it good sport to get to your numbered seat before anyone else... After Japan, and the absolute embodiment of politeness, this was a bit of a slap in the face. I felt there was no better time to come home!

Airports - we all hate them, but they lead to dreams coming true.