The Galapagos Islands - Part 1

First animal I saw, 2 minutes after getting off the plane!

Fish breath!

A male Frigate bird.

Many people are using the term 'Bucket List' now, and it's being thrown around carelessly since that movie in 2007. The movie, starring Mr Nicholson and Mr Freeman, was about two older gentlemen finding out that they had very little time left to live and so decided to go out with a bang, and do all the crazy things that you are supposed to do in your youth. The problem is now that young people, early twenties even, are using this term for the things they want to do now. They aren't going to die, but I guess this is just another trendy word, like "trending" for news or "spoiler alert" when telling your friend what you saw on TV last night. It's true, I have a 'list' but I am in no way dying just yet and the things that I'm doing on my South American journey aren't because I'm old and I have to relive my youth. Anyway, rant aside, no matter what you call your list, visiting the Galapagos have been on mine for some time - in fact, ever since I heard about them when I was a teenager. I have always loved animals, and as a kid I watched David Attenborough amble around the World commenting with that voice of his - I have never lost this interest for the Natural World. Now a 20 year old dream of mine has been made into reality - I am going to these mysterious islands for myself.

Ah, feel that warmth!

I couldn't eat another bite!

What are you looking at?

Price is always a consideration when planning a big trip, and this was a big trip. 8 days on the islands were going to be expensive - everyone that's been there always talk about the price. I found a good deal for a flight and decided against a tour, in the hope that I would save money as well as be able to enjoy myself more; I hate large tour groups of people milling around like sheep, being told what to do and when by your group leader and just generally being part of a large pack of clueless people who I have no interest in spending time with. If I'd had the money a boat cruise around the island probably would have been a good idea though, as a friend of mine did that and loved it - I was on a budget though. The Galapagos, their actual name being the Archipiélago de Colón, are 900kms off the coast of Ecuador and are inhabited by 25,000 people. The first visit to the island was in the 16th Century by the Bishop of Panama's ship was blow off course while he was trying to get to his friend Pizarro (yes that name keeps popping up!). They are famous, of course, because of another man - an English Naturalist called Charles Darwin. On the ship The Beagle, which was on the mission to map the coast of South America, he made geological observations as well as spending a lot of time on land collecting specimens to send back to England. He was looking for a "centre of creation" and could tell what tortoises belong to which island depending on the shape of their shell, noted the differences in the shape and size of the beaks of the island birds, and after returning to England come to the way of thinking that animals can and do "change into another" and offspring can "adapt and alter race to an changing World." This was the start of his Theory of Evolution that everyone knows him for. After South America, Darwin actually made it to Australia, which confused the hell out of him - the rat-kangaroos and platypus nearly made him think that there were 2 creators!

Pelican in flight.

One of the many strange birds here.

A family of iguanas hanging around.

The plane lands on a small island north of the main one, Santa Cruz, and you have to take a bus to the ferry dock, pay for a ferry (even though there are no other options) and then you have the choice of another bus or a taxi. I chose the bus, as the taxis are about $20US and bus was $2 - this was my first day, I couldn't go blowing money so quickly! The island is dry, nearly bone dry, with cacti growing everywhere, and some parts look like outback Australia as there are eucalyptus planted here as well. Dumped in town, the hunt for accommodation began - I was disapointed by the options here, as there didn't really seem to be backpackers and everything was very expensive. I started to lose hope - maybe islands are just for couples! I eventually found a place with air-con for $25, and talked him down to $20. The room was lovely though - double bed, en-suite and view of the bay. If you come here you need air-conditioning - fans just won't cut it here! I was already sweating my proverbial bollocks off, the 32c sun beating down and baking the islands with it's 90% humidity too. 

Sunset in Puerto Ayara.

I can't swim and I'm not big, but I'm cute!

Pelican at the fish markets, waiting for food.

I decided to head straight out anyway and headed for the beach - Turtuga Bay is a 40 minute walk away, and by the end of this you are ready to dive straight into the crystal clear water. The walk back is worse as you are refreshed, your deodorant has been washed off (not that it helps here!) and you sweat up a storm on the way home so much so that you just want the beach again! This beach is where I saw my first marine iguana - these animals are so bizarre that it's hard to believe they actually exist! No wonder Darwin loved this place. These big lizards lay around in the sun, warming themselves up, and are not even bothered by the tourists walking around them snapping photos and selfies - the rule is 2m distance from the animals and is generally respected by all. The can be seen all over the rocks, which happen to be the same colour, and are usually in big groups, cuddling up together. When the iguanas have had enough sun (or people), they get up, stalk over to the shoreline - and just keep going! They just walk right into the ocean and when their feet don't touch the sand any more, their tails kick in as outboard engines and off they go - all without blinking an eyelid (do lizards have these?).

A swimming Iguana!

A pelican in a tree!

Please sir, may I have some more?

The town of Puerto Ayara, where you get the boat to other islands, is an interesting place to wander around. You could easily spend a few days just walking around with you camera, seeing all the animals that seem to live here with the other locals in perfect harmony. All along the docks, the seals sleep on benches and steps, just about anywhere they want. They are not worried about the people either - are they used to them, or just realise they are not a threat and so don't care? Brightly coloured crabs scuttle around the rocks and seem to be the only animal that runs away from humans. Birds fly over head, including the very large Friagte birds, with their wedge-shaped wings are bright red sack under their beaks. The small local fish market is a must - only 1 stand, but it always has a large crowd of seals, pelicans and other birds, waiting for a free feed. The seals, although not the biggest I've ever seen, are still large and can bite if they want, stand within centimetres of the workers gutting the fish - I even saw one seal leaning against the woman, looking up at her with those big puppy dog eyes. He could have taken the fish from her, but instead was an absolute sweety and waited for donations instead. The wildlife and the locals have an agreement here I think - help each other out and generally leave each other alone. It works.

Lizard Love - cuddling in the sun.

A giant Galapagos Tortoise.

A land iguana... non-swimming freak!

Also on the island is the Charles Darwin Research Station. It is only named after him, as he didn't found it. There isn't much information here for the general public, but it came at the end of a nice walk. There is a tortoise 'exhibition' here, and it was the first time that I had seen these giant creatures in the Galapagos. Although in captivity, it is incredible to see them here - some of them are huge! They move fast when they want to, and even 'fight' to show dominance for a female (always boys fighting over girls). There was a guide there taking the local school children around and telling them all about the tortoises. Native to all the 7 islands here, the Galapagos Tortoise is the largest living species of tortoise, reaching over 400 kgs in weight and more than 100 years old - the oldest recorded was 170 years old  and lived in captivity. In the 400 years since people have visited and explored the Galapagos, their numbers have declined from over 250,000 to 3,000. Only 10 sub-species of the original 15 survive, the most famous one being Lonesome George, a huge tortoise who was the last of his kind. On Isabella there is a large breeding station for these animals, and juveniles are now being released into the wild to boost numbers and brink them back to what they were - I read in the news recently that the first 'wild born' tortoise was found here not that long ago!

Back off man, she's mine!

After a day or two here, I had pretty much seen everything, so I took a boat to Isla San Cristobal, over the the East. The boat cost $30 and was a 2-hour journey. This trip, I didn't realise how how it would get and that you feel seasick if you are sitting inside - I didn't get a choice as people who knew all clamoured to sit outside in the fresh air. I tried listening to music, but it was still pretty bad - I ended up standing outside, hanging onto an overhead railing as the 2 big outboard engines powered away. The next 2 boat trips I did I made sure I was outside with the fresh air and occasional splash to keep me cool, and I didn't feel sick either - sorry to those who didn't learn the trick until it was too late. I dreaded these boat trips, but there is no other way to do it - there are other companies but they are all the same price, same boats and same time. Oh well, new island, new adventures! 

Welcome to San Cristobal!