Back to Barcelona

The big 6 month trip from bottom to top - with plenty left for next time

Exit stage left - Goodbye Chile and South America.

Hello Europe!

All good things come to an end, and so my time in South America had too. I'd moved to Chile from Australia in February 2015 to find work as an English teacher and see a bit of the country while I was there. From then until December I saw a fair bit of Chile, Pucon, Santiago, Valparaiso, Valdivia, Puerto Varas and of course Patagonia in the south. In December it was summer time, and that means travel time, so I headed south, as far south as I could go to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, then up through El Chalten and Calafate and onto Buenos Aires, stopping off for some wine in Mendoza before going back to Santiago. My journey then took me up through the driest desert in the World to Bolivia where I visited the Salt Flats of Uyuni, Potosi, Sucre, La Paz and finally to Lake Titikaka on the border with Peru. Bolivia was a definite highlight, so much culture and tradition (and colourful clothes!), but Peru was also wonderful - who can say anything bad about being able to see Machu Picchu? From Cusco, a city that I loved dearly, to Arequipa (another gem of Peru) and Lima (avoid it if possible) then all the way north to Ecuador. Ecuador is green and mountainous, Baños with its active volcano, Cuenca with its colonial charm, Quito with it's hussle and bustle, but the real star of this country is The Galapagos Islands (which was nearly bought off the then cash-strapped Ecuador by the States in the early 20th Century). 

The 'Presence of Latin America' in the Casa del Arte of the University of Concepción

Last time I'll see one of these, possibly forever.

Goodbye Cuba.

So far this had taken me up to the end of March - 4 months of travelling wasn't bad, but I wanted more. My legs were stronger but I was feeling the tiredness of carrying my house around with me... and my wallet was definitely slightly lighter. I crossed the border into Colombia and immediately knew this was the right decision - Bogota and Popayan being the real treats for me here. So many friendly people in Colombia, food and atmosphere no matter where you went (including being in a music video clip in Cartagena!), I fell in love with the country and started to wish I'd moved here to teach rather than Chile (Sorry Conce!). To top things off, after a month and a bit in Colombia, I headed to Cuba for 2 weeks before heading back to Europe and reality. Cuba is a country I would love to say that everyone needs to go there, but I don't want to say that about any country as the more tourists in any place kind of ruins it, but on the other hand if you are going to go, do it now or very soon as it is changing rapidly. Never before had I done such a long trip of just travelling, and maybe I won't again, but it was done and I felt younger, more energised and balanced from it like nothing else before. I was starting to think that I was too old to pack up all my belongings into a backpack (sell or give away what doesn't fit) and move to a country you've never been to before, so it would be Spain this year and nothing crazy for a while.

Nothing says "Barcelona" more than this building.

The face of Barcelona.

Barcelona is a welcoming city.

I sat on that plane, all these great times and great people replying in my head, and I felt a little sad that it was all finished. On the other hand it made me happy knowing I had made a great go of it, never said no to a new place to go and new experience, I was still in touch with a few real friends that I'd made (you know who you are) and I was ready to settle down a little and find a job, a place to live (no more hostels!!) and most importantly, get paid. I was tired, very tired - I don't know how people travel for years at a time without feeling this weariness. The feeling that you have to see something, go somewhere, take photos of some national monument in some country wears you out! I love travelling and I don't get bored of it (much prefer it to work as well), but sometimes it's important to stay in one place for a while, spend time with good friends (not ones you've just met but ones you've had for years) and even time doing nothing but sitting on a sofa and eating your own cooking. All these emotions and feeling were going around in my head and heart, I was feeling positive and happy about the future still and really looking forward to being in Barcelona again. The flight was the only bad thing though - I will never fly Aeroflot again. My meal was served after 2 hours of taking off, and I was starving, but I wasn't offered a glass of wine or even a beer. I politely asked for a cold one and the flight attendant gave me a blank look - at first I thought it was my Australian pronunciation of beer (beeeer rather than bi-er), but after saying it a few times and then asking for wine (and making a drinking sign with my hand), she told me that they don't serve alcohol on Economy Class. How rude!

Catalonia's Parliament House.

The tiny streets of Barcelona.

Barcelona Cathedral.

After 13 hours to Moscow, a wait of 4 hours at the airport and 3.5 hours back to Barcelona, I was finally home in my 2nd home. I'd never lived in Barcelona before, always being just outside the city in the wonderful village of Cardedeu, I always knew it had a vibe, a feeling about it that makes everyone want to live here. Although there are many bad things about being in the centre of the city, and I was staying in Bari Gotic, one of the oldest neighbourhoods where the streets are only wide enough for motos and the next apartment building is about 2 metres away. It's noisy - people don't seem to sleep in this country and even less in summer, drunk tourists litter the streets at all hours and to top that off a lot of streets smell like a communal bathroom in a student house without a maid. I will only talk about the good things though as I wasn't noticing the downside - I was in Barcelona! Staying with a good friend, it was like being home again - a sofa, a room to myself and a kitchen I could use and not be worried about catching some sort of hepatitis infection. It was also smack bang in the centre - a walk to everywhere. Being slightly jet-lagged, due partly to the bad connection on my flight and part to the ridiculous no booze in cattle class policy, I didn't sleep my first night and decided to head out and see things in the early morning light. I strolled down to the beaches of Barceloneta, something I had never really done before. It was nice to refresh in the water and have a swim, although the water is far to calm for me (I'm Australian so I need waves and the risk of drowning or being eaten by s shark), it was great to soak up the sun and enjoy the view. After being in Chile for a year (cold water at every beach) and travelling around South America inland, I hadn't seen a real bikini for some time and here in Spain girls don't bother to much with the top half - ahhh Barcelona!

The beaches of Barceloneta on the 1st of June.

Placa Espanya.

The Arc de Triomf.

Over the next week or so I walked around the city, rediscovering places or even find brand new things. Barcelona is full of mystery, little pockets of the city and backstreets that you just have to find on your own. Luckily I'm a great tour guide so I found the best places. The Barcelona Cathedral should always be on the list if you haven't seen it before, but it's always worth another visit. Sitting right in the middle of the city, this huge Gothic structure was built between the 13th and 15th Centuries and is always full of tourists. You can climb to the roof and see the famous gargoyles or just sit in the plaza in front and watch the 'guiris' take selfies. Wandering through the medieval streets you can see so many things, from graffiti and street art to cool cafes, bars and eateries, but don't forget to look up and notice the architecture too. If you want to see a truly impressive church, head for the Santa Maria del Mar (Saint Mary of the Sea). Built in the 14th Century with the aid of the guilds of the city lending manpower, it's different from most churches due to it's shape - although Gothic, it doesn't have the 't' or cross shape that most churches do, instead it's a kind of elongated 'D' shape with the pillars forming 3 aisles. The stained glass inside is worth a visit alone, along with the very tall and thin columns soaring to the ceiling. There are so many beautiful things to see in this city, the Arc de Triunfo, the Palau de la Musica (Music Palace), Casa Batllo (one of Guadi's designs) and so many 'normal' buildings that run along the Passeig de Gracia, the main road from Placa Catalunya and the neighbourhood of Gracia. Walk, explore, get lost and find your way again but just enjoy the sights.

Montjuic and the National Museum.

The roof of Gaudi's Casa Batllo.

Tibidabo and the church on top.

Somewhere always fun to walk to is Montjuic, a hill near Placa Espanya. You get out of the metro stration and you are in one of the busiest roundabouts in the city, a converted Plaza de Torros (now used for concerts as bull fighting is illegal in Catalonia) and the National Museum of Catalonia looking down on you from the hill. During certain times in the year you can come here and see the 'Magic Fountain' of Montjuic, a colour and music show with the fountains, but even at any other time of the year it's still a beautiful place to see. You walk up the stairs either side of the fountain which runs in the middle, it's a great view of the Museum and water and I couldn't help myself and stop at every intersection to take (more) photos, just like everyone else. Once you reach the top you have to side-step the junk-sellers (or wait for the cops to come and then they're gone) and people with selfie sticks, but the view is worth it - right over the cascading water, over the square and traffic, further past the city and right up the mountain to Tibidabo, the highest mountain around Barcelona. On top of this mountain, which you can climb and get a view back towards the city and the Mediterranean, sits the Tibidabo Amusement Park along with The Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor (Expiatory Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus). The construction of the church started in 1901 with the crypt and finally finished with the towers in 1961 - the Catalans take their time building it seems, just like the Sagrada Familia, which is still under construction.

Fruit on a church? Si señor!

Columbus pointing the way.

Gaudi's UNESCO church.

The most famous church in Barcelona, and probably one of the most in the World, standing alongside the Hagia Sophia in Instanbul, St Paul's in Rome and Notre Dame in Paris, in Antoni Guadi's Sagrada Familia. Construction started in 1882 and in 1883 Gaudi became involved - taking over the project and transforming it with his architectural and engineering style, combining Gothic and curvilinear Art Nouveau forms. Sadly he died in 1926, hit by a tram while crossing Gran Via, at the age of 73 (it's a dangerous road but now the motos and taxis are the main concern), leaving his greatest project less than a quarter finished. The church suffered delays due to the Civil War and work started again slowly in the 50s. In 2010 the Sagrada Familia was declared 'half-way done,' and a projected end date of 2026 was proclaimed, just in time for the 100th anniversary of the architect's death. It is a wonderful building, wether you like it or not, and even though it's unfinished it's still a UNESCO site. There are two main sides to it, the 'Nativity' facade and the 'Passion' facade - the former telling the story of Jesus, his birth and deeds, and is the oldest part of the church and personally overseen my Gaudi himself. The newer side, clearly seen by the colour and condition of the stone, tells of Jesus' death and crucifixion - it is far more rigid and square than the flowing North East side of the birth. My favourite side is the oldest part, but there are elements of the newer part I like too - there is always the towers and the fruit, something that probably shouldn't be on a church, but somehow it works.

The city skyline from Montjuic.

Goodbye (for now) Barcelona.

The arches of Old Barcelona.

Barcelona is a great city to hang out in and even live in. I enjoyed my time here in June, relaxing after my trip and rediscovering a city which I had never really lived in before but had visited many times. They say 'absence makes the heart grow fonder,' and I think in case it's true - I never really loved this city before. I could appreciate it, admire it, but never really loved it - coming back I think I have realised what I knew to be true all the time - we do have feelings for each other. It was also great catching up with friends, going out and seeing them in the heart of the this Catalan city, then walking back early in the morning to go home without the need for a bus, train or GPS even. Ever since the 1992 Olympics, which put this city on the map, Barcelona has continued to grow in popularity and shouldn't be missed - my advice is to come here in June or even September if you want warm weather, August is just far too busy. After a month here I was on my way to Romania for a Summer Camp in the mountains just outside of Bucharest. I could have worked here for July but I figured why not go somewhere new and different - and I was being paid for it too! It would be my first Summer Camp in a long time, my first time to Romania and my first time working since November.