La Diada Nacional de Catalunya

Yesterday was a very important and special day. I know that to most people, the 11th of September means the Twin Towers and the terrorist attack in New York back in 2001. This was a very tragic day, as nearly 4,000 people died in the attack, and it changed many other lives. We can all remember where we were and what we were doing at the time. It will be very hard to forget.

A young Catlan.

But for 6 million people in Europe, it means something completely different. Sepmtember 11 is the National Day of Catalonia (La Diada Nacional de Catalunya), and the past few years have been more important that ever before. On this day in 1714, the Spanish forces, along with French troops, besieged Barcelona and eventually captured it. From this day onwards, Catalonia was considered part of Spain, even though the Catalan culture, history and language goes back to the 10th century.

A boy and his flag.

Even dogs got into the spirit!

 Last year, and the year before, there were mass demonstrations in Barcelona on this day. The Catalans have been vying for independence for some time now, but with La Crisi (The Economic Crisis) it is even more important. I won't go into it all, but basically the Spanish are trying to stop the Catalans from speaking AND learning Catalan in their own schools, as well as syphoning loads of cash from the country, via taxes and road tolls, to pay for the rest of Spain. Now Catalonia is a small country of 6 million people, but it is a prosperous one - I do believe State Governments should help Federal Governments, but it has to be done fairly.

The face of Independence!

Lets not get all political now, as we know that is one topic that will cause arguments. The real reason I am writing this is describe the feelings and emotions that were flying around the country yesterday. It was huge - roughly 1.6 million people were involved, and the main event was the 'Cadena Humana,' or Human Chain. From top to bottom, all along the coast, 400kms long, people were holding hands and singing their National Anthem. The spirit shown was incredible. There was no aggression, no anger, fights, riot police - it was completely peaceful, and incredibly well organised!

So many young people were involved, which is great to see.

Barcelona was the centre of the Human Chain, and everyone congregated in the streets to see it. So many people had their faces painted, flags were absolutely everywhere - tied on as capes, on poles for waving, on children's prams, and hanging off balconies too. Even dogs were dressed up for the day.

Older people also came out in force - people old enough to remember Franco and the oppressive years.

The feeling and atmosphere was great. Friendly and peaceful. What the Catalans want is to be able to speak their own language, put money back into the local infrastructure, and to be an independent country in Europe and the EU. I must give it to them - they have not been violent in any way, and have waiting many, many years for this. They will continue to wait patiently, always showing their 'colours,' and speaking up about their issues without violence. Some other countries around the world could learn a thing or two there - this is the way to get independence, not from the barrel of a gun.

The 'Cadena' running its 400kms all down the coast.

I might just add that not only were the Catalans out for this day - I saw Scottish flags, also the flag of Corsica and Sardinia and some others that I didn't recognise. I think the Catalan movement has become a real movement worldwide - especially here in Europe - for peaceful independence. Although I am for Catalan independence - I also believe in a more unified state where people have their culture and language, but work for something bigger than Nationalism. The European Union, for all its faults, should be something like what we should aim for, and to be honest, I think that's what the Catalans do want - freedom from Spain, and freedom to work with everyone.

Keep The Dream alive!

Go a Segway-ing

After working double shifts in July for 5 weeks, and then doing a 1 month intensive training course in Barcelona, a weekend away was much deserved! Continuing on the theme of 'seeing as much of Catalonia while I'm here,' we took a trip up the coast to Empordá.

Overlooking Montgrí on the Costa Brava.

This part of the coast, between Palamós and L'Escala, has many stories. Pirates used to frequently attack this wealthy area, anchoring their ships in the Bay of Pals (near the beautiful town of Pals), and coming ashore to do their stuff. A famous pirate that used to 'ply his trade' around here was Redbeard (also known as 'Barbarossa'). This is why many coastal towns (like Torroella de Montgrí, Palafrugell and Pals) are inland a few kilometres - to allow time to defend themselves from these pirates. You can also see quite a few 17th century stone watchtowers, els Torres de Morro (Moorish Towers), which were built to spot pirates in advance.

Montgrí Castle.

On top the hill just near the town of Torella de Montgrí, is Montgí Castle. This 13th century castle is impressive, but unfinished. It was started by the Count of Barcelona as he was fighting with the Count of Empuriés at the time. After 7 years of construction, the conflict ended - on the account of the Count of Barcelona accusing his rival of being gay. Let's just say the Church took care of that little detail, and the head honcho in Barcelona won. 

Columbus is also talked about around these parts. It is said that he sailed from the Bay of Pals and the big red cross on the sails of the Santa Maria is actually the flag from the town of La Bisbal d'Empordà here in Empordà. Some people even say that Columbus was actually Catalan, and not Italian...

On the Segway trail, with Montgrí Castle visible on the hill.

If you have never done a 'Segway' tour before, I highly recommend it! If you don't know what a Segway is, they are the silly looking (I used to think!), futuristic, 2-wheeled standing bikes that you see tourists getting around on in cities. They are big in Europe, and I first saw them in Madrid back in 2007. They are electric, and you move them by leaning forward or backwards, and you turn using the handle bars. Sounds simple, but its takes a bit of getting used to. Well, it was great, a little unbalancing at first - I rocked back and forth like a flat bottomed dingy - but it was easy after 5 minutes. A great way to get around, and the ones we had were like 4x4s with big fat wheels - surely Segways are the Future of Transport! I want one!

The sunrise from the campsite beach at Mas Pinell.

We went through the small town of Gualta (which has a population of only 350 people...), and up a hill to take in the beautiful bay. The weather was warm, even though it was the fist day of Autumn - summer is fading here, but the Costa Brava turned it on for us that day! The view from the hills was amazing - you could take in the whole area, and imagine that what is was like when pirates were here. I always wanted to be a pirate...

Next Marta and I stopped in at a nearby camp-site to visit family. The initial plan was for lunch together, then head back home, but we ended up staying till lunchtime the next day. It was fun! If you've never been to a big camp-site here in Spain, I have to say you are missing out a little. Cheap and cheerful would be a label you could give them - but if you don't like crowds, then avoid them. There are people from all over Europe here to get some sand and sun that they don't get in their own country - so we're talking hoards of Germans and Dutch people in their big Audis and luxurious caravans (with satellite TV and more appliances that I have in my house!), and now more and more Russians are coming to get sunburnt in Spain too.

Mother and daughter watching the waves.

Have you ever been asked "mountains or beach?" Well, I normally say mountains straight off the bat, but I do like the beach sometimes. Now when I say beach, I'm talking clean sand and waves - not something you always get over there. The beaches in Barcelona are quite dirty, the sand a bit brown and dusty, or even quite rough, and there are basically no waves - I feel like I'm standing in a salty bath, and when I get out my feet will get dirty. The beach here is different though - there was a bit of a swell, and sand was quite clean and pleasant. I went in, chasing after my 3 and 6 year old nieces, and had a ball. The 6 year old, Alba, is a quite a strong swimmer and was fine on her own with a little supervision, and the 3 year old, Jana, was absolutely fearless with her 'floaties' strapped to her arms. I was tired and wanted to get out before the girls. In the end, after they had drunk much sea water, I carried them in, fighting waves and mouthfuls of seawater myself, and relaxed on the sand.

For some reason, I woke up at 6:30am the next morning. Well, the reason was that I needed the loo, but was desperately trying to hang onto to it till a reasonable hour, so that I didn't have to get up and walk outside to the facilities (small caravan = no toilet). This in fact did me in - the sun was starting to come up, and it was too light when I went back to bed to sleep again... What to do now? Well, there beach was a 2 minute walk away, the sun was just coming up, so sunset watching it was! Rarely done, I soaked it all up, sitting on the beach with my camera, watching the sun come up over the sea. The moment was shared, but not spoilt, with a few people who possibly had the same issue as I did with the outside toilet. A family of 4 sat and watched the sun come up, then afterwards, walked along the beach together and just had a great time - no screens in sight either, just a family doing things together outside! Wunderbar!

It was a very relaxing 2 days, great to get outside and do a few things. Now I feel relaxed and more fit and healthy. I have finally got over my 'jet lag' from the intensive courses, and I'm ready to be more active. I have to build a little bit of fitness it I want to tackle Nepal in October!

Festa Major de Cardedeu

Well, what a weekend! I had been looking forward to this for sometime, as August is Festa Major time. Festa Major is a week-long party in most towns around Catalonia. Barcelona celebrate it in a big way too, with the Gracia Festival. In Cardedeu, it goes from Wednesday night through till Sunday night.

Festa Major - woo hoo!
40C heat - doh!

Thursday afternoon, our two friends Rick and Merja turned up in the village on their bike. They timed their 3 month, European bike tour perfectly - to be in Cardedeu with us for Festa Major. The left England back in May, and have ridden their bike through Belgium, France, Germany, Poland, Latvia, Estonia, Finland and even Russia - not bad!! Very jealous though!! Thanks for popping in guys - great seeing you!

'The Bike' all the way from London.

The temperature had been baking lately, with tops of 40c, so we waited the heat out by 'hydrating' at a local bar before heading into the village for some music, (more) beer, and general partying. The vibe here is just fantastic - the whole village unites to organise bands, clowns, music, drinks, firework shows and everything else you can image, then they enjoy it together - problem free. The police in the town don't really have anything to, but wander around and enjoy it as well. If the same thing was done in England, or even Australia for that matter, would be closed down and banned, and a few people arrested along the way.

El Gigants

 On Friday night, there was the 'Correfoc' for children. Correfoc means 'fire run' and yes, children were doing this one. It is much like the 'Festa del Foc' meantioned in a previous post, but children we the 'diables' this time. Noise, smoke, and of the course the banging of the crackers, the excited screams of children, and of course people who'd had a front row seat dashing for cover as the kids let their fireworks off. Great fun! There were a few singed eyebrows, but it was a lot of fun.

A woman dancing the Sardana with 'espardenyes' (traditional Catalan shoes).

That's a big Paella!

There is something for everyone, all day, everyday for 5 days. For instance; Saturday morning there were the Gigants (Giants) dancing, a band was playing, there was an all-out water fight happening in the park (organised by the local emergency services), people dancing the Sardana, and then the biggest Paella you've ever seen in your life! La Monumental Paella started cooking at round 11am, and was finished at 2pm - it's enough to feed 200 people they reckon, but I'm sure there will be left overs. Everyone comes down and fills up various containers (pots, pans, bowls...) takes it back to their seat in the park (along with the 199 other people) and enjoys a nice paella with some wine and company - great!

Not finished, but lookin' good! Keep rowing!!

OH&S nightmare or just AWESOME?

A father hiding behind his son.

On Saturday, the 'Correfoc' and 'Correaigua' happened - this time for adults. Although I've seen a few of these, and the Festa del Foc as well, this was by far the craziest, and most fun, I have ever seen. It started off as normal - boom, boom, beating of the drums. Then the Diables come in and start dancing with the fire, followed by the biggest, baddest pig you've ever seen - The Verro. This is when it turned crazy - kids and their parents charged in to dance with the devils and the boar, sparks flying, music blaring, and the explosions of the Verros arse (well, the crackers were attached to him...). It was fun, exciting, dangerous and out of this world, all at the same time!

The EU would have a heart attack if they knew about this... don't tell them!!

 This went on for some time - nearly an hour of ear popping, hair singeing, plain old run-for-your life kind of fun. I got burnt a little, which was my own fault as I got even closer when everyone else ran away. The spark went right through my t-shirt, and burnt my chest, missing my nipple by an inch - phew! I did feel like a war photojournalist, dodging gunfire, ducking when there was an explosion - something I dreamed of doing as a kid, but not want my mum wanted me to do.

El Verro charging the crowd.

After this had finished, it was time for the Correaigua. This means 'Water Run' but it was actually just a big dance party with the local 'bombers' (firemen) hosing people down in the square in front of the church. Children and adults, t-shirts and jeans, flip-flops and bikinis, it was all going on. When this was all done and finished, people dried off, grabbed another drink, and went straight back into the party... which went till 6am in the morning. I didn't stay that long this night, but I did hear the festivities from my bedroom 2 kms away.

The 'Correaigua' which was just a big old hose-down!

Beautiful Cardedeu

I am really lucky to be living here in Cardedeu. I know I am leaving soon, but I do know what I am missing. It is such a peaceful village, surrounded by fields and farms, but at the same time, there are so many things happening all year round that you never get bored!

The fields around Cardedeu

As far as festivals go there is the Festa del Foc (mentioned in a previous post), the Fira de Sant Isidre in May (which is like the Easter Show in Sydney), and of course Festa Major, which is in August. Festa Major (which I am eagerly awaiting) is a week long party - music, beer, friends, performaces... great fun! It's name 'Festa Major' means Major Party - and it is!

Castellers - part of Festa Major

There are many more, throughout the year, such as music festivals, arts and crafts (there is an antique fair every month), markets every Monday... the list goes on!

The Ajuntament of Cardedeu (Town Hall).

As far as the town goes, there are some amazing houses. These houses were built by wealthy people from Barcelona - Cardedeu really become popular as a weekend retreat from the 'Big Smoke' of Barcelona. You can see many of these house around Cardedeu, and even do a Modernist tour (The Modernist Era is the early part of the 20th Century when Guadi wis kicking about building things everywhere).

One of the Modernist houses in Cardedeu.

Cardedeu is very well situated too. 100 kms from the French border, 10 kms from the coast, and a 40 minute train ride into the centre of Barcelona. I much prefer living in a village, rather than a big city - and I'm feeling that more and more lately. In fact, soon I don't think I will even be able to live in a village - I think I am becoming a big of a recluse.

Sunset in Cardedeu.

Well, for anyone coming to Spain, or Catalonia, I have some good advice! First of all, call me and tell me you're coming, and we'll have a great time as I will show you round. If you don't know me, my advice is: Don't just see Barcelona (which is beautiful, but in my opinion slightly over-rated!), get out there and see the things that are so close to Barcelona, but much better. Let me give you an example.

The Sagrada Familia - Guadi's unfinished masterpiece.

Montserrat - this is the Catalan's sacred mountain, and only about 45 minutes away. Montserrat is the patron Saint of Catalonia. There is a cathedral halfway up, and plenty of walking over the mountain. It is a great spot for hiking, relaxing, and just taking in the fresh air - you're very high, and it seems like the top of the world! 

Montserrat at sunset.

My plan - enjoy it while I'm here. Cardedeu is a great place, and one place that will always remain in my heart and in my memory. I will be back!

The green fields and blue sky of Cardedeu.

Weekend at Frenchie's

It's great to actually be able to say 'I think I will go to France for the weekend,' and then do it. That's exactly what I did this weekend.

I've been working all July, morning and evenings, so a quick weekend getaway has been much needed. We thought to head north a bit, through Ripoll and Camprodon, and cross the Catalan-French border over the Col d'Ares. Most people head for the water when the weather is baking, but I love the mountains.

The Col d'Ares.

The Col d'Ares is the top of the mountain pass between France and Catalonia. It is important because it was used extensively during both the Spanish Civil War and WWII. Catalan who were being persecuted by Frano's goons made the 8km crossing to safety, and POWs also made the trek out of Nazi occupied France to (relatively) neutral Spain. Today, we did it in a car.

Party lights in Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste.

The cathderal of Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste.

We spent an evening in Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, a lovely little French town nestled in the mountains, just on the other side of the pass. The town was part of Catalonia until separated in the 17th Century by the Treaty of the Pyrenees, but it still holds onto its Catalan past - Catalan flags are abundant, even the independent one, and some of the older people still speak Catalan. The town itself only has 1,000 inhabitants, but it has city walls, old cathedral and plenty of bars, restaurants and life. While we were there, there was a 'festival of bands' there, and marching bands came parading through the town, making plenty of noise, but putting smiles on everyone's faces. Our hotel was a little way up the road, at a tiny place called La Preste, where only a handful of people live, but it is popular for its natural thermal baths and has expensive hotels to prove it.

Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste.

The Sardana

Sardana of 2

We popped into a town called Ceret, only about 30kms from Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, still in France, and were greeted by the main square full of people dancing the Sardana! The Sardana is the national dance of Catalunya - and I had thought a fading tradition, but it looks to be doing fine! Everyone got involved, young and old, and large groups danced around the square, and there was even a Sardana circle of two.

Heading home, as we only had 2 days away, we decided to stop in one of my all time favourite Catalan towns - Camprodon. The last time I went there was in October 2007, and it was Castanya time. Castanyas are Horse Chestnuts, and here it is traditional to cook them and eat them with sweet potatoes in October. In fact, they celebrate it here, rather than the American holiday Halloween. It was cold then, being mid-autumn in the mountains, but today was baking hot - just the way I like it! Sun, cold beer, and a river running through a Medieval town with a bridge - I am a sucker for Medieval towns and bridges, and when you put them together! I'm glad I could stay for a bit here before leaving - I enjoy revisiting places that I loved the first time, and finding that I still love them.

Camprodon from the bridge.

A lovely weekend I must say, but tomorrow it is back to reality... but I'm not going to think about that today, I will leave it for 5 minutes before work starts on Monday morning!

(By the way - I mean 'Frenchie' in the nicest possible way - I love the French!)

Goodbye Catalonia - I will miss you!

"I still call Australia Home!"

It's what all Australians say, no matter where they are living at the time - Australia will always be home.

And on that line, the decision has been made to move back to Australia. Yes, it's happening - this year! We have been thinking this one over for at least 6 months, but probably more like 9 months. Should we go or should we stay? There are many reasons to stay, and many to go...

Money. Always on people's minds - whether in the back of it or not, its still there! Spain, and Europe in general, is in quite a sorry state of affairs in this regard. There is very high unemployment in Spain right now - more than 26% (and about 50% for young people) - and even people that do have jobs are getting their salaries cut. Teachers, doctors, nurses - all of these people are losing hours and sometimes their jobs... some things should not be cut, ever.

so desperate for money, the Spanish government is selling off nearly everything they own http://www.smh.com.au/business/world-business/spains-property-sale-of-the-century-20130702-2p991.html

On the other hand, Sydney has just been named 3rd most expensive city in the world to live in. There are reasons too for this - the high Australian dollar and it's popularity. It is a wonderful city to live in - green and clean compared to most other big cities around the world, buzzing night and day life but easy to escape for peace and quiet, food, people and culture from all over the world, and lets face it - it's gorgeous!

The sun setting on the city of Sydney.

There is work to consider - I have a stable job here teaching English, and what will I do in a country full of native speakers? Packing up and moving to the other side of the world is always a big deal, but since I've done it a few times already, it's (slightly) more manageable.

There are many things I will miss about living here in Catalonia. Australia has many things to offer, but every country is unique in it's own way.

Cadaqués, one place that will always be on my favourite's list, and I will never tire of visiting. It's the Med at its best - blue, calm, and perfectly complimenting the white houses of the town.

the beautiful Cadaqués.

The medieval bridge of Besalú.

The festivals and partys that are always happening here, especially in the warmer months - you just don't really get that anywhere else! Festa Major for example - where else does a party last a whole week?

Llonganissa.

Food? What is Catalan food? GOOD! Fuet, llonganissa, butifarra, pa amb tomaquet, galtas... sorry, did you get any of that? Fuet is smoke, peppery porc and looks like salami, but is FAR better. Llonganissa is veyr similar, but bigger, better and more expensive :) Pa amb tomaquet (bread and tomato), is a stable here - whether you order a burger or a sandwich, they always rub the bread with tomato... yum YUM! Galtas is actually porc cheek - now you may be thinking, there are lots of the pig to eat, why the cheek? Let me tell you - its one of the best parts! Port snout is always great fried up nice and crispy... I dont recommend the trotters though, I think they smell like sweaty food (as taste the same...), but they love em here. And pernil - or ham. They cure it here, and you can buy it in store sliced, or just get the whole leg and do it yourself - it's what people buy and eat for Christmas.

Pernil.

I could name more and more things and places... Girona, Tarragona, the mountain of Montseny (which I see everyday from my living room window), Camprodon... the list could, and does, go on. Being so close to France, the Pyrenees, and basically being so close to Barcelona airport, it is the gateway to the rest of Europe! Now I'm getting 'homesick' for here!!

Gustave Eiffel's bridge in Girona.

The move will be in October sometime, so there is still time to see a bit more here, spend time with the In-laws (or Outlaws as I call them... they are wonderful though! I will miss the family here), and catch up with friends. If you're in the neighbourhood, you're running out of time to see me before I go... if you've been waiting for this moment for some time now, well, you're in luck now!

Adeu Catalunya!

Australia - HERE I COME!!

Visca Catalunya!

Picture a Sunday afternoon in sunny Catalonia...

Pa amb tomaquet (tradtional Catalan food)

Supermarkets, shopping centres and every other shop is closed. It's Sunday - its Family Day. The bakeries open in the morning, as everyone needs their 'Pa amb Tomaquet' (bread and tomato), but that's it. 35 degree heat, nobody around... perfect day for chilling in the backyard, dozing, or having a tinnie or two.

a 'tinny' of beer (traditional Australian food)

Well, the village of Cardedeu wasn't doing this! They were out protesting for independance from Spain! Although this was only a trial run for September 11, which is the National Day for Catalonia, there was a good turn out - about 800 people. There were flags in abundance, and good spirits all-round.

The idea was to make a human chain, or 'cadena humana,' from Cardedeu to Llinars (which is the next village, about 3 kms away). Although the chain didn't make it the length of the village, it was still a good effort.  People lined up, held hands, smiled and waved flags. Flags, flags and more flags there were - capes, full-body coverings, t-shirts - anywhere you could stick a flag, one was stuck there!

Along the line, old blunderbusses (or 'trabucaries') were fired by men and women wearing traditional Catalan  costumes. At the end of the demonstration, a few (too many) words were said by some local politician about this and that, then what everyone had been waiting for - the releasing of the flag! Up until this point, the Senyera (the name for the Catalan flag - I love flags with proper names!) had been tied up nice and neatly to a flag pole at the top end of the village. On queue, it was released... well, half-way. We all thought for a minute that it was all going to go wrong - the big finale was going to be ruined by a stuck flag! Then, as everyone was still breathing in, hoping, a warm summer breeze came in and brought the flag to life - WOW! What a relief! All 20 guns were fired, including a small cannon that had been wheeled up the hill, scaring kids and adults alike, then the National Anthem began.

Everyone knew the words!

Who said 'The Youth of Today' don't have any respect!

What a great afternoon! Proud to be Catalan they are - not overly nationalistic or patriotic - just proud of being who they are. No flag burning, no bad words to say about any other country - they just want to have theirs. I think people have a lot to learn from the Catalans - they have not resorted to violence, but have always tried for independence peacefully and with discussions and openness. I hate to say this, but in many other countries there would have been a few problems.

Well done Cardedeu! Next - Catalonia! On September 11 the whole country will be lining up in a Human Chain, right up and down the coast, as a peaceful protest to say: "Spain, give us a referendum, give us our freedom!" It is supposed to be a Democracy, so the people MUST have a say!

"12 Highlanders and a bagpipe make a rebellion" - Scottish proverb